Looking to do more than just sightseeing in Salento, possibly even fitting a multi-day trek during your visit to Salento? You’re in the right place.
Below, we recount our story in every single detail about our hike in Cocora Valley, including what to look out for, what to pack, and how to get to Salento. If you make it til the end, you’ll even be rewarded with a discount code!
While most would come all the way to Salento for its iconic wax palms at Cocora Valley, my travel style meant that I was always on the lookout to travel deeper – getting to know the lifestyles of the locals and hearing the stories of the people who live here.
When I found that there were multi-day treks offered in and around Salento, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to push my boundaries once again. If that meant hiking to an altitude of 4,000m, I’ll gladly accept the challenge!
And so we came to Salento for one sole purpose – to hike the forests around Cocora Valley.
About Salento
This lovely little town situated at 1,900 meters above sea level is home to a few thousand people and splendid sceneries.
Traditional and picturesque houses, street art, and quaint local restaurants are some of the things this town offers, making it a great place to visit and enjoy the natural parks and other attractions.
Apart from the wax palms, Salento is also well known for one other thing. Situated in the middle of the coffee axis due to its prime height and the weather is always nice, it makes perfect conditions for coffee plants. If you’re into coffee, you’ll find some awesome coffee tours around here!
About Cocora Valley
Did you know, the wax palm is the national tree of Colombia?
Many come to this valley because of the wonderful scenes that the valley and its mountains offer.
One of the most symbolic views in this valley is the Wax Palms since this is home to 6 of the 12 species in the region.
This native palm is very impressive and stands out from everything else, because – believe it or not – under the right conditions, these palms can grow up to 70 meters and live more than a hundred years!
Yes… in the right conditions…
In actual fact, wax palms are in danger of extinction and sadly, some people think that they’ll cease to exist in the near future.
This is also the place where we started our 3-day trek since it’s one of the main entrances to the Los Nevados National Park (Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados).
About Los Nevados National Park
Starting at 2,600 metres here you will find a wide variety of ecosystems, volcanos (there’s even an active one), glaciers and snowy mountain peaks, where the highest is 5,321 metres.
More than this, this place has a very important role for all this region and the coffee industry – many rivers originate from up here and distribute themselves throughout the region, providing water to more than 3 million people!
Weather In Salento
The average weather in Salento all year round is often wet and overcast, with the temperature varying from 13°C to 23°C.
The warmest months are from January to March, with February being the hottest month.
The cool season lasts from October to early December.
The best times to visit Salento – and also this is where peak tourism is – are from mid-June to early September and from late December to mid-January. This is when Salento is flourishing with warm-weather activities.
If you’re looking for clear skies in Salento, you’ve got a small window of opportunity. The clearest months are from June to mid-September, of which the sky is clear for most days of these months.
If you’re visiting from mid-September to June, you can expect clouds most of the days.
We went in mid-August, and found the skies to be clear in the mornings, and clouds to start forming in the afternoon.
Things To Note Before You Hike Cocora Valley
Hydrate well
Alcohol consumption is not recommended the day before the activity. In fact, hydrate very well 2 days before, during, and after the trek. Shoot for at least 4 liters of water per day.
Be insured
While tour companies provide a basic level of insurance, I always recommend you get travel insurance before embarking on higher-risk activities. I went with Safetywing, as it covers even COVID-19-related expenses. You can read more about them here.
Mentally prepare
The hike is NOT a walk in the park. You might even slip and fall (like I did), but THAT’S OKAY, it’s all part of the experience!
The fact that you’re reading about the hike goes to show you’re in the right direction towards preparing yourself for this hike!
Physically prepare
There’ll be lots of uphill ascents. You should also have a good sense of balance and agility as most of the path may be soft and slippery. Work up a good aerobic fitness regime so you have good stamina for the duration of the hike.
Book your accommodation in advance
Don’t make the same mistake as us thinking we would have the energy to take the bus back to Medellin the very same day we finished our hike. As a result, when we returned to Salento after our hike all exhausted, we had to carry our gear and scramble around town to look for accommodation to take us in.
Fortunately for us, it was still the post-COVID recovery phase and tourism is still down, hence it didn’t take too long for us to find a place to board us.
Where To Stay In Salento, Colombia
If you’re coming to Salento to embark on a hike like we did, it’s recommended you spend at least a night before the hike, and spend a night when you return to base in the town of Salento.
That’s what we did, and it’s recommended for a couple of reasons.
One, you probably want to get acclimatized to the weather and altitude in town. The humidity especially can be something you’re not used to. Also, you might want to head down to your trekking company to get a sense of the trek, get weather updates, and go through the equipment you need for the hike, so you don’t get caught off guard or be ill-equipped for the hike.
We stayed at Casa La Eliana the first time we got to Salento, and absolutely loved the Italian owner, Jesus, who was humorous and helpful in providing us with information about Salento. He also makes superb authentic Indian curry, so be sure to order a plate when you do stay with him.
The rooms were large for the price we paid, and so we knew we had to come back to stay when we returned on our hike.
There are ensuite rooms and rooms with shared bathrooms for your choosing. If you can, grab the rooms that are upstairs! The smell of the wood brought my days of traveling in the UK back, strangely. What nostalgia.
Day 0: Pre-Hike
Our interaction with Paramo Trek started way before our actual trek, about a month before. We were conversing over Whatsapp (that’s the way most dealings are done in Mexico, Costa Rica, Colombia, and the rest of South America).
Even before they had us as clients, they were already so helpful with showing us information about Salento.
Furthermore, as a company that had established itself for over 8 years in Salento, they’re one of the more well-established trekking companies in all of Salento. A local confirmed that too when we shared a ride into town with him and told him about our plans in Salento. He gave us a thumbs-up!
Fast forward to the day before our hike, they had us fill in a registration form detailing everything from our medical condition to our physical condition and dietary restrictions. They left no stones unturned. The team at Paramo Trek likes things well-prepared.
We were also asked to visit their office for a briefing and an equipment check to ensure we’re properly equipped for the hike. Coming down to listen to them share more about the terrain and what to expect really properly mentally prepared us. It was only upon looking at the map and the pictures of previous hikers that we knew what we were really in for.
It wasn’t optimistic.
The weather’s been erratic. It had been raining all week. Coming to Salento itself, we were already met with a heavy downpour. The forecast is set to be rainy and windy – no surprise there – which put a damper on our spirits.
That coupled with how our trek overlaps with the track of the farmers and their cows, we’ll be stepping on mud-ridden paths for most of the bottom half of the trek.
That doesn’t sound fun, we thought. While we expected clear skies and dry paths, we were met with the opposite. Well, we can’t always predict the weather, but the thought of having to trod through cow dung as the highlight of the trek doesn’t sound so appealing.
Ricocheting between going forward and giving up, it’s one of the most difficult decisions travelers always have to make.
What reassured us was speaking with the co-founder of Paramo Trek, Cristina. Something about the way she described the trek and the realities of trekking shifted the perspective for us.
She reminded us that embarking on a trek such as this was as much about challenging one’s personal resilience as it is about looking at Salento’s sights.
Something clicked within me.
This is what I live for, from the moment I booked my one-way ticket at age 21 halfway across the world alone, to embarking on this unconventional “travel blogging” lifestyle, to never letting others stop me from pursuing the difference. I’ve always embraced the personal challenge, the journey of self-discovery, the stepping out of my comfort zone.
Am I really going to let the fear of getting dirty stop me from this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity on this edge of the world?
Envisioning myself walking away from this opportunity and then regretting it with all of my bones is what always propels me forward whenever I stand between staying in my comfort zone or stepping out of it.
SO YES, WE’RE GOING!
It’s really with great relief as well that Paramo has everything we don’t. If not for their rubber boots, the extra warm layers, the waterproof layers, and a proper multi-day backpack, the measly clothing that I carry in my year-round digital nomad luggage will never suffice, and we’d not have enjoyed the hike as much as we did.
Day 1
Minimum Height: Cocora Valley, 2,400 m Maximum Height: Finca Argentina, 3,400 m Distance: 12 km
The first day we woke up around 5:30 am at our hotel, to prepare for the day that awaits us.
At 7:00 am we met up with the team at the Paramo Trek office. When we arrived at the office, we added more items that Paramo loaned to us to better equip us for the hike. In hindsight, I don’t think we could’ve done the hike so comfortably without their rubber boots!
They also handed us snacks for each of the days and the day’s lunch. With that, we set off!
We were taken along Salento’s beautiful streets that were being devoured by the mist to a local cafe for a nice local breakfast. Just after finishing breakfast, there was already private transport waiting for us outside.
25 minutes of driving through orchids filled with fruits (we spotted some massive plots of land with avocados!), signs that we were nearing began showing. It was sparse at first, but then it started showing in abundance.
Yes, the wax palm trees that Cocora Valley is so famous for!
We were in the heart of Cocora Valley, the gateway to the Los Nevados National Natural Park. Cocora Valley was wrapped in mist when we arrived, a common sight of the valley.
After a small talk with the park rangers and registering ourselves, our way up started at an altitude of 2,400 meters at 9 am.
As we ventured deeper inside the rainforest, surrounded by the song of birds in their natural habitat, we crossed rivers on bridges laid by fallen tree logs.
We embraced the forest ecosystem, learning about the plants in this area while we ascended, stopping a few times to rest.
Midway down the trek, all I could feel was the searing pain of my clavicle as it bore the weight of my 10kg backpack, that all I thought I was born with bones that jut out which was what was causing this pain.
In hindsight and with some advice from fellow trekkers, I surmised it had to do with my trekking posture and how the straps of the backpack weren’t adjusted properly to spread the weight of the backpack throughout my back.
When it was finally time to stop for lunch (ugh, a break after non-stop ascending, finally!), we pulled out our lunch box only to find a nice, encouraging note written by the Paramo Trek team on it.
At this point, you must be wondering how the situation with all the mud and cow dung is. While there was nothing we didn’t expect, we were mighty glad for those underrated rubber boots, for they were not only waterproof and protected us from the mud, but they were also anti-slip and surprisingly comfortable. I had no issue with blisters whatsoever, and it soon became my default mode of shoewear for the rest of the trip.
Surprisingly, we didn’t find much life throughout the trek. Or perhaps I was too focused on trying to play catch up with our guide while not falling into the mud. It felt like we were always playing catch up with him, although he did say to take our own time. With him over a meter away, the conversation was minimal.
The monotonous trekking was broken when the guide pointed out some big birds that he identified as pava de páramo. They’re a large brownish chicken-like bird that inhabits the Andes from Venezuela to Bolivia and is found at higher elevations; from the upper subtropics to the temperate zone.
We continued ascending until we reached 3,400 meters at 4:30 pm. During this journey, we could see glimpses of the imposing Andean mountains each time the clouds cleared, which is always exciting.
After a total of 7.5 hours of grueling uphill climb, we finally reached our overnight base, a farmer’s homestead called Finca Argentina. If not for the chimney poking out from among the rainforest cover, this homestead would’ve been totally masked in nature in the middle of nowhere.
Finca Argentina is a humble home to a multi-generation of farmers, working together day and night tirelessly tending to their animals. In this farmhouse, we found cows, horses, pigs, sheep, dogs, cats, hens and geese. What a robust family!
They’re sheltered from the harsh conditions with a tin roof secured by stone weights and wooden planks and cardboards. These sheets were the only barriers between what they call home and the great outdoors.
I couldn’t imagine living up here permanently, in this altitude and cold, in a confined space with upwards of 10 people in a multi-generational family. What tenacity they got!
We were relieved to have arrived here for several reasons. One, I can finally relieve my shoulders of the heavy backpack! Two, hot water and shower! Hot water and electricity, two comforts which we take for granted in the city, are really precious commodities at this level of altitude and this deep in the jungle.
At night, we shared a simple, hearty dinner with the family while listening to the stories about their daily lives in the mountains (in Spanish). Later, we huddled inside the kitchen where the stove simmers above the heated charcoal, gravitated to the warmth.
-
The kitchen -
Cowboy gear
After a quick massage for one another to soothe the shocked muscles, we slept in our bunk beds blissfully.
Day 2
Minimum Height: Finca Buenos Aires, 3,800 m Distance: 3 km
We were greeted in the morning with a simple breakfast of arepas (typical of Colombian cuisine), scrambled eggs, and fruits.
It was a steep ascent from the beginning on out, as we got through our first hurdle, trodding through loose mud and cow dung that surrounds Finca Argentina. Even with the boots, one wrong step could have your boot sucked in by the mud, leaving you shoeless.
What was meant to be 15 km worth of descents and ascents crossing the Cárdenas river basin to 4,045 meters above sea level in the paramo ecosystem from where we can see the Paramillo del Quindío at 4200 meters turned into a day chilling at our next base, for Selassie was drained from the bad stomach and frequent runs.
Seeing that we were at 3850m in altitude, we also noticed the shift in terrain that differentiates the Paramo ecosystem from the lower altitude. Tall trees, thick foliage, and shrubbery gave way to flat plains.
With the high altitude comes its symptoms as well. Gradually, I was experiencing a heavy head that throbbed with each step. Every 3 steps I took, I became breathless and had to stop for air. It was as if the surrounding air was closing down on my lungs, reducing my capacity to breathe, or even function.
Our next farmstead, Buenos Aires, where we’ll put up for the night, was easily recognizable by the majestic old pine that covers it. It was a roughly 3km journey upward. Being able to see our endpoint made the 2-odd hours of walking bearable. I just had to tell myself to take one step at a time, to focus on each step instead of the throbbing head…
This was the point in time where I was glad for private trips instead of group ones. Our guide, Esteban, was very patient with us at our level of pace, and we could alter our trek itinerary according to our preferences.
The view at Finca Buenos Aires was gorgeous. It was as if we were peeking in between mountains at such a high viewpoint. The only neighbours we could see were these mountains which interestingly, are dormant volcanos. When the clouds shifted, we could even see a snow-covered mountain. We bade our time enjoying the fresh chill (albeit sharp) air from up here, accompanied by farm dogs and a very curious and hyperactive cat.
The paramo ecosystem is also characterized by Espeletia, commonly known as ‘frailejones’, is a genus of perennial subshrubs. What makes this ecosystem called the heart of water, is that these plants can hold tons and tons of water.
Unable to rest until I saw one, I geared back up after a brief break to hike the rest of the way up until I reached the 4000m mark, while Selassie took a siesta. Thankfully, my only gear was my bag of water. Trekking without having to lug a backpack makes a world of difference.
I have to admit it wasn’t the easiest sleep of my life. My muscles screamed in agony, my stomach gurgled with the air and my head pounded as I tried to make it through the night.
It was later that I found out that Esteban brought coca leaves, for making coca tea to relieve altitude sickness. I wasn’t sure why he hadn’t offered to us that evening.
Day 3
Minimum Height: Cocora Valley: 2,400 m Maximum Height: Finca Buenos Aires: 3,800 m Distance: 15 km
Day 3 was a consolation day knowing that we’ll be tucked in a bed with no more uncomfortable heavy backpacks to lug at the end of the day. As much of a city dweller as we sound, what we most looked forward to at the end of the trek was civilization and the comforts of a home.
Out of the 7 months, we’d been travelling together, 3 of those were spent by the beach town in Puerto Escondido. We certainly hadn’t done a multi-day trek before and hence weren’t used to the trekking life.
We had a late start at 9 am. Bidding goodbye to the paramo ecosystem and frigid air, we made our descent the same way back towards Cocora Valley at 2400m, along a route surrounded by flourishing fauna and fauna.
Paramo Trek knew how tough hiking these terrains was and surprised us with a picnic! Not just a regular picnic – it was a picnic complete with red wine, cheese, crackers, olives, and chocolate. On the wrapper of our chocolate bar was a handwritten note congratulating us on our hike. I can’t believe Esteban carried a bottle of wine throughout the hike. It was completely unnecessary but so terribly sweet!
The descent took longer than we expected (again, we only had ourselves to blame), so we had to cut our indulgence short and keep going.
When we finally reached the clearing where our trek ended, Paramo had already arranged a Willys jeep to take us back to Salento.
What continuously impressed us was how, as part of the trekking program with Paramo Trek, they put in personal touches wherever they can to make sure we’re well taken care of.
While they could’ve wrapped up our hike there and then after we unloaded our equipment, they told us to come back for a sit-down dinner at a local eatery after we’ve freshened up at the hotel.
What…?! They’ve really surpassed the service of the hospitality industry.
With a full belly, fresh clothes, and a heart full, we plonked on the bed of our hotel room bed that night, proud of our achievement that seemed insurmountable on Day 0.
Getting To And From Salento, Colombia
By Flight
The nearest airport to Salento is Pereira. It takes roughly 45 minutes by bus to get to Salento. The bus terminal to catch the bus is Transportation Terminal Pereira (location here).
By Bus
The most common option is to take a bus. It’s both economical and comfortable but be aware it’s an 8-hour ride.
From Medellin
You can try buying the tickets at Flota Occidental or REDBUS online. We didn’t manage to get tickets online so we had to go directly to Terminal del Sur (location here) and get a ticket, and then go back to the same location on the day of our departure to grab the bus.
If you find the 8-hour non-stop journey to be too much, you can split up your bus journey by going from Medellin to Pereira then Pereira to Salento, the biggest and closest town to Salento.
From Salento
The bus leaves at 9:30 am from Salento and we arrive in Medellin around 5 pm, with a stop in between for lunch. I was surprised by the luxuriousness of the bus.
The location of the bus stop in Salento is La Terminal – Parada de Buses Salento in the northernmost end of Salento (location here)
Take note, there are only 2 buses leaving from Salento to Medellin every day, morning and afternoon.
Packing List For Hiking Cocora Valley
It’s important to know what the weather is like to be properly equipped. Up in the higher elevation, expect temperatures between 3°C to 10°C with a humidity of 80% and lower thermal sensation. You’ll want to dress warmly for the night, as the high humidity can make it feel even colder than it really is.
Below is a packing list guide provided by Paramo Trek:
| CLOTHING |
FOOTWEAR AND WALKING AIDS |
| Inner Layer | Rigid and waterproof trekking boots, preferably with ankle support as the terrain is soft. Tennis or running shoes will not allow you to safely walk the trail. |
| Underpants/ leggings | Fleece socks |
| Liner socks | |
| – Mid Layer | Gaiters |
| Synthetic shirt | Sandals (to change to at the base camp) |
| Fleece/insulated top | Trekking poles |
| Wool/ cotton shirt | |
| Down sweater/ feather jacket | SHELTER |
| Sleeping bag (depending on your trek) | |
| – Outer layer | |
| Waterproof jacket (no wind cover) | PACKS |
| Waterproof pants | 30-litre hiking backpack or more with a waist strap – for loading everything you need during your whole hike |
| Rain cover for backpack | |
| – Legwear | |
| Trekking trousers (NO JEANS) | PERSONAL BELONGINGS |
| Trekking pants (No cotton pants) | Towel |
| Camera | |
| HAND | Dry bags/Plastic bags |
| Liner gloves | A recyclable 2L bottle or more – for refilling. I used a water reservoir bag and brought an insulated bottle up (which is a lifesaver when it comes to having hot water to drink on cold trekking days) |
| Insulated/ waterproof gloves | |
| Optional: | |
| HEADWEAR | Water purification tablets/filter |
| Sun hat | Personal first aid kit |
| Warm hat, preferably fleece lined | Thermometer |
| Headlamp with spare bulb and battery | Soap (preferably biodegradable) |
| Neck gaiter/ Buff | Binoculars |
| Sunglasses with high UV protection | Knife |
| Sunscreen | Whistle |
| Lip balm | Repair kit (duct tape, glue) |
| Face mask |
Discount Code
Lastly, the team at Paramo Trek has very kindly offered a 5% discount on any tour booked with them. All you have to do is show them this article to claim your 5% off!
Speaking of prices, for the number of meals they cover to the snack bags, you’ll be left feeling more fuelled than before you even started the hike. 100% worth it!
Overall Thoughts
I have to make a disclaimer that this whole stomach situation came at the wrong time, and was completely unrelated to the trek. It came from one of the bad fruit juices we drank from a street stall in Santa Marta prior to coming, and it had already been going for a few days.
The team at Paramo Trek was really professional and thoughtful, especially with the equipment they were able to loan us. They knew the terrain well enough to advise well on the appropriate equipment to have.
You could also tell they were also very caring and encouraging from the little notes they left on the lunch pack and the chocolate bar.
To them, it wasn’t just about taking customers up and down the mountain and getting the job done. Knowing how tough the conditions are, they really wanted us to enjoy the hike, even if it’s in the little notes or the celebratory picnic lunch with a bottle of wine or a proper breakfast before the hike and dinner after the hike.
All these little care touches were definitely not expected of a trekking program, yet these thoughtful gestures really warmed our hearts especially when we were out there.
They were also realistic about the difficulty of the trek and did nothing to disguise how the terrain might be tough and ugly, even at the cost of losing a customer. That way, each trekker knows exactly what we’re in for, and there are no (unpleasant) surprises along the way that were not communicated before.
We didn’t have to worry about water or food once, as our guide had filters to filter drinkable water for us. We only had to bring our own reusable water bottles. We had 3 packets of assorted snacks for each of the 3 days – plenty of calories to fuel us for the hike.
Although as travel journalists with an incessant appetite to learn, we felt we could have learned a lot more about the ecosystem and our surroundings if our guide walked alongside us so we could direct the questions to him, rather than 2 meters ahead of us. That made chatting difficult. Also, we couldn’t help but wonder how he’d reach us if we got injured on the hike and became immobilized.
While I’m not a frequent trekker, when I do, I have a love-hate relationship with it. My dormant muscles hate having to push my limits and there’s no way to back down, no room for giving up.
My mental resilience is tested in these trying times, which at the end of it, always leaves me feeling accomplished and proud of my feat. That’s what trekking is exactly about.
Being able to step in the shoes of the lives of others (the farmers living up in the cold, misty mountains) also provides another perspective. The way they live so humbly in the harsh external conditions is a testament to their tenacity, down-to-earth, hard work, a lesson that the more privileged can take from, don’t you think?
That’s exactly the essence of travel.
Paramo Trek
Carrera 5 # 9 - 33 lote 4
311 7453761 - 310 3824026
info@paramotrek.com
Read other useful posts about Colombia!
Special thanks to Paramo Trek for this experience! All opinions remain my own.
24 – 26 Aug 2021, Tue – Thu
