Once a must-visit destination on many travellers’ bucket lists, Sihanoukville is now somewhere that these same people try to steer well clear of.
But how did it reach this point? Is it safe? Is Otres Beach still a haven? And does Sihanoukville still offer favourable conditions for digital nomads? Most importantly, is it worth considering as a travel destination in 2024? Let’s take a look.
There’s no denying that over the years, Sihanoukville has changed a lot – evolving into a huge city.
Back in 2017, it wasn’t too bad – although it wasn’t necessarily somewhere you’d want to hang around for more than a night – a convenient stopover before catching the ferry to the islands if you like.
However, there was also the idyllic retreat of Otres Beach in Sihanoukville, which really can cast a spell over you.
But now? Well, Otres Beach no longer has that appealing bohemian charm – and it seems to have been swallowed up by the chaos of Sihanoukville City.
So, with that being said, let’s delve into everything you need to know about Sihanoukville – the Chinese-invested ghost town of Cambodia – and see if it’s still worth visiting in 2024.
At A Glance
Where Is Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Located off the Southern Coast of Cambodia this has long been a popular spot for travellers who are looking for the best beaches the country has to offer.
It’s around a 3-hour, 200-kilometre drive from Phnom Penh along the expressway, and an airport has even been built there now, making it even more easily accessible to travellers.
History Of Sihanoukville, Cambodia
For many years, Sihanoukville was left alone. It had no proper waterways, it wasn’t a decent place to trade, and it wasn’t until Cambodia’s Independence in 1954 that a port was even built here.
Sihanoukville was once just a sleepy little backpacker town, and it was put on the traveller route in the late 90s thanks to its beautiful sandy beaches and small-town vibes.
From then, it grew in popularity with a steady stream of travellers, and soon enough, many tour companies started taking their guests there as well.
However, this all changed during the 2010s when there was a huge boom in construction from Chinese investors. No longer interested in simply offering some of the world’s best online casinos, it wanted to lure the big-money tourists to its shores by setting up huge land-based casinos – with the numbers quickly climbing into the hundreds.
Thousands of Chinese workers flew in to build these huge modern skyscrapers, and they were provided accommodation that was no better than a jail cell.
In the late 2010s, construction was at its peak, and quite a few of the buildings were finished and were now open for business.
However, in contrast to this, there were those that were simply abandoned, whether the investors ran out of money or the locally run businesses such as restaurants and guesthouses were left to rot.
This was certainly a loss for the traveller – who saw it as a paradise lost. However, it was even worse for the locals, who were essentially run out of town.
A popular, beautiful local holiday destination had turned into a city of gambling, drunk, and dangerous drivers. Small businesses were brought up on the cheap, demolished, and quickly replaced with huge skyscrapers and modern hotels.
It didn’t even bring the locals more employment opportunities, as business was being done in Chinese. As such, they wanted workers who spoke the language and who would provide cheap labour, hence the many people who were brought over from mainland China.
In the late 2010s, this place was no longer the idyllic backpacker destination it was once so well known for. Otres Beach was being consumed by construction and developers.
Because of this, in early 2022, tour agencies started pulling out of visiting this destination – and it became more of a holiday hell rather than a holiday heaven.
What Is Sihanoukville, Cambodia Like Now?
Sadly, the days of Sihanoukville being a pretty backpacker beach destination are nothing more than a distant memory. Backpackers are gone, and Chinese tourists are in – and the hostels and guesthouses have turned into casinos and 5-star hotels.
The only thing that really remains of the past is the numerous tuk-tuks. There are now direct flights there from around 29 cities in China, Hong Kong and Macau.
That being said, it could be argued that Sihanoukville is looking a lot better than it did in 2017. During that time, there were huge half-built concrete buildings and dirt roads that were no more than muddy tracks.
These days, the roads are paved, and there does appear to be some proper basic infrastructure. Huge concrete buildings are everywhere, and the city’s skyline can easily be spotted from the horizon.
Even though you’ll likely find sparkling brand-new hotels on booking websites, they aren’t really set up for backpackers or even Western travellers. Instead, they cater to the Chinese tourists in terms of food, drinks, and facilities.
Is Otres Beach In Cambodia Still Worth a Visit?
Back in the day, this beach was the perfect backpacker’s paradise. You could easily find lots of affordable accommodation, the night markets were amazing – and an excellent way to meet other travellers – and there were all sorts of delectable dining options that were not only tasty but very affordable.
Even if you stayed a short walk away from the main beach, it was still an easy 10-minute walk past locally-owned businesses and a few foreign-owned ones by travellers who had also fallen in love with this destination.
Okay, there may have been a couple of big concrete structures popping up, but they were on the outskirts and had no effect on the overall ambience of the place.
Unfortunately, these days, Otres Beach in Sihanoukville has drastically transformed from its former glory. It has now become just another part of the bustling cityscape, with perfectly maintained streets and towering structures sprouting up across the area.
While a few locals have decided to stay put, living in modest shacks along the dusty pathways that contrast with the modern takeover, the majority appear to have walked away from their former piece of heaven and looked for somewhere else.
Many hotels in the area were even in talks of closing down—and for many, it’s just a matter of deciding when. After all, no one wants to sleep in a hotel with 24/7 construction next door, no matter how nice it is.
This is a place where you will find the real picture of the rich vs. the poor. Many local people live in bamboo shacks that have sheets for walls – while there are insane, brand-new skyscrapers built literally next door.
How Safe Is Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Visuals and aesthetics aside, most visitors will want to know how safe they actually are – and sadly, for the most part, Sihanoukville is not a safe place. There are lots of places, especially in Asia, that travellers can visit with peace of mind, but unfortunately, this is not one of them.
Most reports indicate crime here is now between Chinese nationals – and although you may steer well clear of it, things happen… and it’s really not something you would want to get caught up in. Older reports of safety in Sihanoukville seem to focus on petty crime with travellers, but things have changed. Since the travellers no longer visit as much now, those days are essentially over.
So, if you are visiting, you will need to keep your wits about you as you could find yourself becoming a target if you let your guard down to someone opportunistic.
Where to Go Instead Of Sihanoukville In Cambodia
Instead of Sihanoukville, there are plenty of other beautiful destinations in Cambodia.
You could check out the ancient wonders of Angkor Wat in Siem Reap – and marvel at magnificent temples as you immerse yourself in Khmer history. Or why not visit the charming riverside town of Kampot, famous for its colonial architecture, pepper plantations, and stunning scenery?
Then there’s the tranquil beauty of Battambang, which is home to beautiful countryside, bustling markets, and traditional Khmer culture. Or, if you prefer a more serene island escape, you could always visit Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem, with their pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters.
The great news for travellers is that Cambodia offers all sorts of amazing alternatives away from Sihanoukville.
The Future Of Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Sihanoukville has completely reinvented itself, starting anew from the ground up. But amidst the gleaming skyscrapers and tidy shores, it begs the question: will it ever be able to recapture the essence of the coastal paradise that it was once so famous for?
Sihanoukville City Centre seems to have achieved its main objectives – leaving a lot of chaos in its wake. These days, shorelines are tidier, the roads are paved, and modern skyscrapers and hotels offer unprecedented comfort.
However, the growing number of casinos, both on land and at sea, is pushing away the backpacker crowd that used to come in their droves – and visitors are dwindling.
It seems unlikely that it will ever revert to its former identity as a serene traveller haven, with its quaint bamboo huts, local eateries, and hammocks on the beach.
If that’s what you’re after, you might well want to look elsewhere… perhaps on one of the nearby islands, where you can still enjoy a bit of Cambodia’s famous laid-back charm.
Whether Sihanoukville is still worth a visit in 2024 depends on what you seek. While the city has undergone significant transformation, shedding its old identity for a more modern, albeit chaotic, persona, it may still hold allure for some.
For those in search of vibrant nightlife, luxury accommodations, and a taste of the new Cambodia, Sihanoukville might just fit the bill.
However, if you yearn for the serenity and simplicity of yesteryears, you might find solace in exploring nearby islands or seeking out quieter coastal retreats like Da Nang in Vietnam, Hoi An, or Bangkok.
And if you’re considering working while on holiday, Sihanoukville may not be the ideal spot. Its transformation has skewed towards catering to leisure travellers rather than providing conducive environments for remote work.
Consider destinations like Bali, Thailand’s Koh Samui, or the thrilling cities in Europe, which offer a conducive environment for both productivity and relaxation.
In the end, the choice is yours, and it’s worth reflecting on what type of experience best suits you.
